Many years ago there was an iconic barbecue restaurant on King Street in Riverside called Buddy Ezell's. Great barbecue in its day, but toward the end of its run the quality of the food dropped off, mostly due to ownership changes. As long as Ezell's was open, there was a waitress named Liz that worked every night, Monday through Saturday (they closed on Sunday, even after nearly every restaurant stopped that practice), they were open. Bright orange hair, back bowed noticeably as she aged, we grew to love her candor and wry sense of humor. As the food quality waned she would advise regulars on which menu offering was good, and what to avoid.

 

One night she leaned in close and told our table "I know y'all like spicy food, be sure to try this new cook's hot wings." Boy, was she spot on. Marinated in a vinegar heavy brine, deep fried whole and naked and then covered with the hottest sauce I've ever had, I've never had a better wing before then, or since Ezell's closed. They were plenty hot but full of flavor, not just hot for hot's sake, if you know what I mean.

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