I used to work with a guy who was a professional surfer when he was younger, was very successful on the east coast. He told me he was surfing at the Jax Beach pier when a hurricane way offshore was creating some nice surfing conditions, and Tim Deegan was also there surfing. As they were waiting for a wave Deegan was describing how the meteorological conditions were affecting the surf. I forget the details, but my friend said he had it essentially opposite of what the facts were.

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